Shhh Fashion Industry Dictionary

Aline- dress/skirt shape that is narrower at the top and gently flaring out to the bottom, following the shape of the letter A. Flattering for bottom heavy figures.

Accent- is a distinctive feature that accentuates the look and style of a garment. Can be a touch of color, embroidery, etc, that makes a designer’s work look unique.

Appliqué- refers to stitching in which a design is created by sewing pieces of fabric (or other materials) together onto a fabric background.

Baby Doll – is a short nightgown with hem that terminates just below the hip. A baby doll is longer than a crop top, but shorter than a chemise.

Baby Doll Dress- Above the knee empire waist dress, modeled according to the baby doll, often gathered at the top and adored with lace, appliqué, ruffles, bows, etc.

Back Drape- A length of material attached either at the shoulder or the waist that flows over the back to floor length. In some cases, it’s removable.

Ballerina Flat or Ballet Flat- is a flat shoe with a thin, skid-proof sole, often with a drawstring, an elastic top line or a modern design. This is a staple for the city girl.

Bandeau/Tube Top- is a strapless band-shaped bodice.

Basque Waist/V-Waist- is a dropped waist that starts at, or just below, the natural waistline, and dips in the center creating a “V” shape.

Bateau Neck/Boat Neck- A high, wide, straight neckline that runs straight across the front and back, meeting at the shoulders; it has the same depth in the front and back.

Bell Sleeve- is a long sleeve that flares at the bottom like a bell.

Bias- is a textile term used when a garment is cut at an angle to the warp (horizontal yarns) and weft (vertical yarns) of a fabric. This is used to create garments that closely follow the curves of the body.

Bohemian- A trend that describes a free-spirited attitude towards fashion with a lot of feminine details; including flounces, ties, ribbons, ruffles and embroidery. It can also be called poetic, romantic and a folkloric style. Originally comes from the Eastern European culture.

Boot-Cut- Refers to trousers or jeans that are cut below the belly button and flare slightly from the knees to the ankles to accommodate any type of footwear.

Broomstick Dress- A dress (or skirt) characterized by its numerous pleats and crinkled material.

Bubble Skirt- A voluminous skirt, somewhat resembling a balloon.

Bustier- A sleeveless, strapless top or dress held in place by boning, elastic or stretch fabrics. It is designed to help shape and enhance the bust line.

Buti- A small embroidery motif, usually floral, but can be paisley/ mango shaped or others shapes as well.

Camisole- is a short sleeveless garment for a woman that often feels like lingerie.

Cap Sleeves- A small short sleeve that sits exactly on the shoulder or falling just on to the arm.

Capri Pants- Three-quarter length pants designed to hit mid-calf, first popularized on the Isle of Capri.

Cardigan Jacket- is usually a collarless sweater or jacket that opens the full length of the center front.

Cargo Style- Pants or shorts with patch pocket or bellows pocket with a flap (usually a button flap) and made of cargo material, the classics are in green or beige colors.

Chanel Style- Anything that is elegant, simple and easy to wear. The classics are a little black dresses and suits with multi-chain jewelry. The style is named after Coco Chanel, the French couturier.

Charmeuse- is a manmade, shiny, silk-like fabric.

Chemise- Usually a short nightgown hemmed below the hip and above the knee. Held up by thin spaghetti straps, the gown should fit snugly at the bust and upper torso and fall loosely and flow past the hips.

Chiffon- A lightweight, plain-weave sheer fabric made with very fine, tightly twisted yarns. It is very strong, despite its filmy look.

Clog- is a casual shoe on a wooden base, usually closed toe with an open back.

Cotton Poplin- Medium weight durable textured fabric made with cotton or cotton blends.

Cotton/Spandex- A blend of lightweight, breathable fabric made with durable, stretchable, manmade fibers of polyurethane and natural cottons.

Cowl Neck- A neckline featuring a piece of material attached to a garment at the neck which is draped loosely and hangs from shoulder to shoulder at the front neckline or back.

Crepe- is fabric which is characterized by a crinkled and puckered surface or soft mossy finish. It comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness.

Crew Neck- A round neck with ribbed banding that fits close to the base of the neck

Crochet- is a technique for making a garment or shoe with a lacelike effect, involving a hook and a yarn.

Cropped Top/Jacket- The hem is cut just above the waist.

Day to Evening- is a look that can take you from a day in the office straight to a night on the town with just minor changes, such as adding or changing accessories.

Décolleté- is a very low-cut neckline, falling in a V-shape to below the bust giving you a plunging neckline, this looks often also reveals the shoulders and back as well.  This is also a name for a woman’s neck and cleavage area.

Deconstruction- Is a term used to describe clothing that has been taken apart and put back together in a new unexpected way, or looks unfinished, raw and as though it may be deteriorating.

Dolman Sleeve- Cut as an extension of the bodice, the dolman sleeve is designed without a socket for the shoulder, creating a deep, wide armhole that reaches from the waist to a narrowed wrist.

Double-Breasted- A style of closure in a jacket which has one edge of a garment overlapping another with a double row of buttons or other fasteners.

Drape- describes the hang or fall of fabric when made into a garment.

Duster- A long, open lightweight coat, with or without a button closure.

Empire Waist- is a waistline which begins just below the bust, designed with a high waist to create a flattering sweep.

Eyelet- is a type of fabric punched with decorative holes and embroidered with purl stitching.

Faux- is originally a French word meaning imitation or fake. It is most often used in connection with gems, pearls, leathers, and furs.

Finish- is the level of perfection with which a garment is completed. In the best garments, the inside will look as complete as the outside.

Form fitting- This is a style which closely skims the body and emphasizes the natural curves without being tight.

Flare Pants- Pants that flare at the hem, also called bell-bottoms.

Gaucho- Wide-legged pants or divided skirt reaching mid-calf.

Grain- A term used to describe the direction of the weft (vertical yarns). Clothes are traditionally cut on the grain, i.e. along the length of a fabric. On the cross grain refers to cutting fabric in the direction of the warp (horizontal yarns).

Halter- is a sleeveless top with a plunging neckline; the cut leaves the shoulders bare and is quite often backless.

Handkerchief Hem- handkerchief hem falls in several graceful points to flatter all figures.

Haute Couture- French word for high fashion which is hand made. Couture itself relates to dressmaking, sewing, or needlework while haute means elegant or high. The pieces require several fittings and are staggeringly expensive because they are one of a kind. To qualify as an haute couture piece a garment must follow several strict guidelines. For a label or business to qualify as a couture house it must belong to Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture in France.

Hip-Huggers- are low-slung pants, skirt or belt worn below the natural waist creating the impression of a longer, leaner torso.

Ikat- is a handcraft where the yarns are carefully tie-dyed in a particular design before they are woven together.

Inseam- The inside seam of a pant leg, dress or skirt.

Jacquard- A raised design or pattern woven into a fabric as opposed to being printed on the fabric.

Kaftans- is a full length garment with elbow or full length sleeves, now kaftans come in all lengths. Often highly embellished with embroidery and originated in the Middle East

Kimono- is a Japanese garment. The kimono sleeve is a wide sleeve cut in one piece with the main body of the garment and traditionally worn with a broad sash.

Kitten Heel- was first popularized by actress Audrey Hepburn, this chic little heel is about 1 to 2″ high with a feminine curve to it.

LBD or the Little Black Dress- is a classic black cocktail dress that has become a fashion staple after being first introduced by Coco Chanel. It is reinvented every season but never goes out of style.

Linen- is a type of fabric that is cooler, stronger and more absorbent than cotton.  It is woven from threads made from the flax plant.

Fabric Lining- The inner layer of fabric used to cover the inside of a garment. It is usually made of soft, smooth fabric which adds to the outfit by making it more flattering and gives it extra protection.

Lycra Spandex- is a trademark brand made by the Du Pont Corporation; it is a type of fabric known for its spandex stretchy material.

Matte Jersey- is a fine-knitted fabric with a flat finish.

Mary Jane’s- traditionally styled after school children’s shoes with a rounded toe and a flat heel, the chief characteristic of a Mary Jane is the strap over the top of the foot. Today Mary James can be of any heel height and is a staple for shoes designers.

Micro fiber- is a fabric made of silky synthetic material, usually woven polyester.

Minimalism- is a look and a trend in design where clothes are stripped down to their most basic elements. It is characterized by simple forms and basic color schemes.

Minis-Maxis- A mini is a very short skirt or dress falling mid-thigh or higher.  It was invented by Mary Quant in the 1960s.  The maxi refers to a full length skirt/dress, usually ankle length or longer.

Moccasin- Soft loafer-like leather shoe constructed with lacing to attach the sole portion to a U-shaped upper. It is often elaborately beaded and copied from designs of the Native Americans.

Mules- type of a shoe without any back strap.

Natural Waist- describes the natural curve of the body, which is the indentation between the hips and the rib-cage.

No-Waistline – Leaving the waistband out of pants or a dress to achieve an elegant simplicity and a smoother silhouette.

Open Stitch- shown in woven or knitted fabrics that are loosely-stitched achieving a semi-transparency.

Organza- Fine, sheer, lightweight, crisp fabric with a stiff feel. It crushes or musses fairly easily, but it is easily pressed. It is a dressy fabric and sometimes has a silvery sheen.

Paisley- is a fabric print rich in swirling designs, can be either woven in or screened. Based on fine Scottish wool fabrics designed in yarn-dyed colors.

Pea Coat- Traditionally a heavy, warm hip-length woolen jacket with double-breasted front and a wide notched collar.  It was originally worn by sailors in a navy blue color.

Peasant Top- Romantic style top often characterized with a low neckline, ruffles, or free-flowing material.

Pencil Skirt- skirt with a straight line that falls at or below the knee with no flare or fullness at the hem or waistline.

Platform Heels- type of shoes with thick soles made of wood, cork or plastic. They create the illusion of height without the discomfort of regular arched heel.

Pleats- is a technique used to create volume in a garment by folding fabric and stitching it down at the top of the fold. Types of pleats include knife pleats (all folds facing one direction), box pleats (two flat folds in opposite directions with edges of the fabric meeting underneath), and inverted pleats (similar to a box pleat but with the fullness on the outer side).

Picot- is a row of small loops woven along the edge of a fabric in ribbon or lace for a decorative effect.

Pieced- A look created by sewing several pieces of material together to form a garment, much like a quilt.

Pigment-Dyed- Yarns colored with material that is of animal, vegetable or mineral origin before they are spun into fabric.

Pin-tuck- Narrow, sewn-down pleats, usually on the front of a garment.

Piqué- (Pronounced “pee-kay”) is a durable, knit or woven fabric with raised lengthwise cords or squares which are part of the weave.

Plissé- is a French word meaning gathering, folding, pleating, it describes a fabric with a puckered surface.

Pointelle- is an open-hole stitch usually in the shape of a V, flower or a diamond.

Polo Dress- A long or knee-length dress designed as an extension of the classic cotton knit polo shirt.

Polyester- A wrinkle resistant fabric made from synthetic materials.

Poncho- is a square and straight piece of fabric, usually waterproof, with an opening in the center for the head. Originally a Latin American garment in colorful woven fabrics that was used as outerwear.

Poplin- A finely ribbed fabric, usually made of cotton.

Puff Sleeve/Pouf Sleeve- A full sleeve of varying lengths, created by generous gathering around the armhole.

Prêt-a-porter- is a French term describing ready to wear collections. It is designed to be more widely available and attached to a lower price point compared to haute couture garments from most design houses.

Pump- Slip-in shoe with a medium to high heel which can be used for day or night.

Purl Stitch- Knitting stitch employed to create a ribbed effect.

Rayon- is a silky, lustrous material that is manmade from natural fibers, has excellent drape and dye-ability.

Saddle Stitch- small running stitches visible on the outside of a shoe, handbags and other accessories.

Safari Style- Safari Style Garments adapted from bush jackets worn by hunters on African safaris; including such features as bellows pockets, belting and epaulettes.

Sateen- Lustrous cotton or rayon, this fabric has a smooth hand with a soft sheen.

Seersucker- Term derived from the Persian “shirushaker”, a kind of cloth, literally “milk and sugar”. The woven crinkle is produced by alternating slack and tight yarns in the warp.

Shelf Bra- is a bra that is built into a garment and offers the support without being visible. It provides a smooth, seamless appearance.

Shrug- is a short jacket that is waist length or shorter. Some styles may look like they only consist of a back and sleeves. It is very similar to a bolero jacket.

Silhouette- is a shape of a garment from top to bottom; the key shapes a designer uses in his show indicate what silhouette people will be wearing.  Popular silhouettes are A-line, H-line, Bell shaped, Empire line, etc.

Silk- An extremely soft, natural fabric made from the secretions of silkworms.

Sling-back- Any shoe with an open back and strap around the heel.
Spaghetti Strap- A thin tubular strap that attaches to the bodice, named for its likeness to a strand of spaghetti.

Stilettos- are either pump or sling-backs with a high narrow heel. Usually used in the evening to dress up an outfit.

Straight Leg- a term used to describe Pant legs that are cut in an equal width from the waist to the ankles.

Tankini- is a two-piece bathing suit with the upper portion resembling a tank top.  Tankini provides the coverage of a maillot and the freedom of a bikini.

Trapeze Top- Tank top style with a fuller bottom sweep.
Trench- A waterproof overcoat styled along military lines.

Tumbled Leather- Soft leather with a slightly pebbled grain

Tweed- A coarse wool or synthetic fabric used chiefly for casual suits and coats with subdued and interesting color effects

Vamp- is the upper part of a shoe or boot covering the instep.

Vintage- describes a trend in fashion that references designs and other details from past eras, the 1920’s to the 70’s.
Wide Leg- Pants or jeans that are cut extra full through the legs with a wider leg opening.